How Long Does a Perm Last? Perms Today vs. the ’80s

Quick answer: Most perms hold their shape for 3 to 6 months. The curl doesn’t vanish all at once. It softens and relaxes as your hair grows out. Fine, straight hair relaxes faster, and coarse or previously permed hair holds curl longer. Today’s perms are also much softer than the tight, frizzy ones many of us remember from the ’80s.

Perms today are not your mother’s perm

If the word “perm” makes you picture a head of tight, springy curls and a smell you couldn’t escape for a week, you are not alone. That was the ’80s look, and plenty of those perms were done in a hurry, with one rod size for everybody.

Most women who ask for a perm now want something different: body, bounce and a little movement, with hair that looks like it was blessed with natural wave. A good stylist picks the rod size for the curl you want, not the other way around, and times the solution to your hair’s condition instead of to a stopwatch.

Body wave vs. spiral perm

These are the two looks we get asked about the most.

• Body wave. Larger rods and a loose, soft bend. It adds fullness and lift, especially at the crown, and makes fine or flat hair easier to style. Many women in their 50s, 60s and 70s choose this one because it takes less work in the morning.
• Spiral perm. Smaller rods wrapped in a spiral for defined, bouncy curls from root to end. It’s a bigger change, and it looks best with some length.
• Partial perm. Just the crown or just the ends, when you want a little volume without changing your whole head.

Bring a photo of the curl you want. A picture says more than we can describe, and it helps us tell you honestly whether your hair can get there.

So how long does a perm last?

The answer is 3 to 6 months for most people. A perm doesn’t wear off like nail polish. It’s a change to the shape of the hair that is already on your head, so the curl stays until that hair grows out or is cut off. What fades is the tightness. Over a few months, the curl relaxes and the new growth at the roots is straight. That is why many women book a touch-up or a new perm when they notice it is losing its lift.

Several things change the timeline:

• Hair type. Fine, straight hair relaxes faster. Coarse hair, or hair that has been permed before, tends to hold a curl longer.
• Hair length. Longer hair is heavier, so the curl can stretch out sooner.
• Condition. Healthy hair takes a perm better than very dry or damaged hair.
• Color. Lightened or heavily highlighted hair reacts differently to perm solution, so we check your hair first. If it needs strengthening, we would rather do a restorative treatment before we start.

How to care for a perm

1. Wait at least 48 hours before washing. The curl is still settling, so let it.
2. Use sulfate-free shampoo and a good conditioner. They are gentler on curls.
3. Skip the brush. Use a wide-tooth comb on damp hair, or just your fingers.
4. Use a light curl cream. Scrunch a little into damp hair and let it dry without touching it.
5. Try not to over-heat it. A diffuser on low heat is kinder than a flat iron.

The good news for us in Florida is that Gulf Coast humidity is a perm’s friend. Moisture in the air tends to keep curls bouncy rather than flat. We’ll send you home with a simple routine matched to your curl.

Is a perm right for you?

Sometimes the honest answer is no, or not yet. If your hair is badly damaged, we will tell you, and we may suggest a deep-conditioning treatment first. If you have your heart set on a perm and your hair is healthy, there is a good chance we can make it happen. Every perm at Classic Styles begins with a free consult. We tell you what it takes and give you an exact price before we start.

You can read more about our body waves, spiral curls and classic perms here. It is a service fewer and fewer salons offer well, and we have been doing it for decades.